The Aeolian Islands (or Isole Eolie) are seven little pieces of paradise, set in the Tyrrhenian Sea off the north coast of Sicily. All are volcanic, with Stromboli, the northernmost point of the archipelago, still active, firing out red sparks that make for a spectacular night-time show.
At the southern end of the group, Vulcano has been dormant since the late 19th century, but still emits ‘bad egg’ smelling gases through holes and fissures (called fumaroles) right across the island.
There are many ways to explore the islands – island hopping by ferry and hydrofoil, a boat excursion or sailing trip, hiking on foot, or zipping round on a hired scooter. But for this traveller’s money, the best way of all is by sea kayak.
We chose the island of Vulcano for our sea kayaking adventure, with Eugenio, the fabulous owner/guide from ‘Sicily in Kayak’. Here’s the seven things that make exploring a volcanic island from the waters that lap its edges such a thrilling adventure:
1. Away from the crowds
The Aeolian Islands are a popular destination, and even when we visited, in April, they were busy. But out on the water, there were no crowds, no queues – just the gentle splash of our blades hitting the water, and oceans of beautiful sparkling blue space.
2. Information
As we paddled, Eugenio shared his encyclopaedic knowledge of the islands he calls home. We learned about the four volcanoes that make up today’s Vulcano island, and how and when they were formed. We learned about the fumaroles that throw out the ‘bad egg’ smell that pervades the island, and even saw an underwater fumarole that made the sea bubble, for all the world like a super-size spa bath. As we paddled the length of the northern side of the island Eugenio pointed out the different layers of lava, rock and ash and explained how the caves and gorges came to be.
3. Stories
Not only did we learn about the geology of Vulcano, Eugenio shared stories such as ‘the war of the volcanoes’ – when Italian film director Roberto Rossellini, made his ground-breaking ‘neorealism’ film Stromboli. He famously replaced Anna Magnani with Ingrid Bergman – not only as the lead in the film, but also as his wife. The doubly-rejected Anna responded by making her own film, Vulcano, in the same group of islands at the same time. A film in which underwater cameras were used for the first time to capture the beauty of not just the land, but the waters around Vulcano.
4. Caves
The volcanic activity of the island has helped to form some stunning cave structures around the island – some barely passable by kayak, and requiring a good deal of ducking of heads. Paddling through these was sensory overload of turquoise blue water, adventure and stunning rock formations.
5. Goats
Yes, goats. As Eugenio explained, the water constantly trickling down the sides of the hills feeds a supply of fresh green grass (the colour looked unreal, like a colour from a child’s paint palette), which attracts the goats that live on the island. Their bleating makes for a great background soundtrack to the gentle splash of paddling. (Occasionally, one slips into the water and Eugenio showed us pictures of goat rescues made on previous trips).
6. Coasteering & Snorkelling
To be fair, we didn’t do this one – but the option was there, included in the trip. It was sunny but still chilly during our April visit, so we wimped out, but based on the fish I could see from kayak, I could tell that the snorkelling would have been awesome.
7. All levels and abilities
With a guided tour like the one from Sicily in Kayak, anyone can enjoy the delights of the Aeolian Islands from the water. Kayak guides in Italy have to be qualified, which means that you know you’re in safe hands. We’ve kayaked a bit before, but even with no previous experience, you can have a great experience – everything is provided, including basic tuition. The water was calm, Eugenio offered plenty of rest stops if we needed them and took things at our pace.
A trip to the Aeolian Islands is a must if you’re visiting Sicily or southern Italy, with so much to see. And – for the seven reasons above – the very best way to experience Le Isole Eolie is by sea kayak.